A Lifelong Affair

Our obsession with surfing is hard to explain to those who haven’t caught the bug.

The early mornings, missed social occasions, damaged relationships and surfers' ears. Not to mention the endless “need” to buy new boards, wetsuits, robies, changing mats (the surf industry really can sell us anything).

All this to go into the sea and glide over the swells.

It’s easy to see surfing as a selfish pursuit, and I think maybe it is.

The perception of life changes. Life becomes simpler. Things back on dry land become less significant, issues become trivial compared to life in the ocean. Surfing changes how  you approach life. Once the obsession takes over, it’s not letting go.

Holidays are planned with waves in mind. Houses are bought depending on their proximity to beaches. Cars are judged on their ability to transport friends and surfboards. Jobs are lost when going surfing is not a legitimate reason for calling in sick (I state that you’re not a real surfer if you haven’t called in sick when the waves are good).

Everything else in life becomes  a comparison to that feeling of standing on a freezing beach after a good session, cold wind on your face, and a feeling of pure contentment.

That draw to the ocean and nag inside me to go surfing is always there and there is desire to leave everything behind and escape to warmer water and waves.  

So I think surfing really is a selfish pursuit. But it is a testament to surfing. If you’re new to this surfing game, congratulations, you’re fucked. Welcome it, let it fuck you up.