Summer's Ending

Summer has come to a close. You sometimes forget what the luxury that having to put on suncream before a surf is. Of only having to remember to bring a wetsuit and a board to the beach. Pre work surfs, getting out the water at close to midnight, chatting on the beach. It’s a real good time.

You don’t have that constant dread while driving to the beach that you’re wetsuit is still wet and your futile attempt at hanging it in the bath to dry while cranking up the heating has made no difference at all.

But with winter coming, this is when it really gets fun. Ice on the ground. Piercing winds. Powerful waves.

I love taking chances on big windy days just to get in the water. This is when the surf community matters most to me. Turning up to a beach when the air temperature is hitting zero, wind howling and unfriendly surf. There's definitely a comfort in seeing a head bobbing around amongst the sets or someone pull up with a board in their car.