No Phones In Church

Often when driving off from the beach, James and I ask each other if we got any pictures. Did you take your camera in? Stand on the reef and get any shots?
We often forget. Not ideal when running a surf brand. It’s what sells the products.

No phones in church.

Worrying about how your turns look can ruin the experience. I like geeking out on surfboards and trying to improve technique, but for me - it’s the wave that is the fascinating part. The way the water moves, its shape, its power, its mood. Time in the water is special. Surfing comes first. Everything else is secondary. It may be bad for business, but it’s good for the soul.

A shot of Ru at rare left hander during Storm Arwen last year. Sent over by Gary, who I recognised at the same spot last week, who was once again was the only other surfer in the water.